March 07, 2010:
Everyone Pitches In!
Epiphany - S203
One of the enjoyable parts of working with this website and helping to keep track of the square meter boats in North America is the people I have made contact with over the past few years, but that pales in comparison to the excitement one feels when a previously thought to be lost boat magically reappears. When one does appear it generates a few phone calls, a flurry of e-mails, and several happy people. Looking back on one of these events I thought it would be nice to share some of the e-mails and information about the boat that turned up. It makes for a long post this month, but a lot of good information was shared.
It all started with the purchase of a boat that was for sale on the side of a road in Maine and a e-mail to Sweden.

Epiphany (S203), sailplan courtesy
Ted Lameyer
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Hello Brad!
I hope everything is alright with you and your family over there!
Do you recognize this boat? We received an E-mail the other day from a
guy in Maine called Ted Lameyer. He claims his boat is an Erik Nilsson
design and he may be right, but I am not sure...
Let me know if you have seen her in Belmont sometime over the years!
I will contact him to try to decide which boat this is. If you can help
me i any way, just go for it!
Take care!
Peter
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Hi Peter and Hello Ted,
Peter: good to hear from you and receive another mystery!
This looks exciting.... If I can assume that the "38" draped over the
side of the boat is an old sail number I would say that we have found
Icicle (aka Quest) US 38. She looks about right and should be in about
the 38' to 40' length range (?).
If, indeed, this is Icicle she would have been owned for many years by Andrew "Andy" Johnson (Johnston?). When in Chicago she was always
varnish over a bleached Mahogany hull, very light in color, clean and
about middle size for the Chicago boats. I think Andy was the last
owner her (there might have been one more) and then she was sold out of
the area but I don't know to where but it would have been sometime in
the early '70's. I remember that she could always point a few degrees
higher than all the rest of the boats and keep good speed meaning that
Andy often was the first to the weather mark. He went on to purchase a
fiberglass Udell 22 (I believe now Ro Rayments Grail) and sailed her for
a few years. She was always more delicate looking in the water than she
actually was.
Unfortunately she is one of the boats I don't have any additional
information on but suspect was in Chicago prior to WWII. I know she is
not "Defensor" (S-222) or Lilleflu (Skol: S-208)... could she have been
Charlott (S 203) or Rayona (S-200) Peter? Ted... can you find a hull
number in her? I remember she was bow heavy on the crane (but that
could have been the way Andy had her set up) because he used me as stern
ballast a couple of times when he put her in. If you have any old sails
with the makers name that might help us identify her (Murphy and Nye
Sailmakers?). Any old wooden cheeked blocks marked "Burmans" or
something close to that? Any old papers?
Good to meet you Ted. Please feel free to send me any other information
you might have.
Regards to you both,
Brad
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Hello Brad!
I talked with Ted over the phone last night, and his boat is S 203 "Charlott" built by Kungsors yacht yard in 1935. He knew that she has been
in New York for a very long time, so I don't think she has ever been in
CYC...?
"Charlott" is a sister ship to Richard's Van Valkenburgs S 200 in Detroit,
so I guess Richard will be able to advise Ted how to make his repairs,
although, upon viewing this boat seems to be in a lot better shape than
Sonja was when Rich. started working on her.
Peter
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Brad,
Thank you for your reply to Peter letter. Indeed my boat is the old "Quest"
I removed the name plates myself. Does this mean that I am SSS 203 as I
have been told. The sail numbers on the main is "38" I have one genoa
that
was from Keneth A Nelson Sailmakers, Chicago, Ill. I have a Hood Genoa,
and
a storm jib that has a triangle sail mark, but no name.
To help you fill in some blanks. I researched the registration number on the bow. It was from New York. It was registered to a Mr. Bruno Andretto
of
Medford, New York. It was registered under this name from 5/28/76 -
10/9/87. Around 1990 this boat was brought to Rockport Marine, in
Rockport, Maine to rebuild a mast. The yard never met the owner. They
did
the work, and were never paid. They never heard from the owner again. A
court awarded the boat to the boat yard as compensation for work done.
The
yard sold the boat to Bill Glover of Camden, Maine in 1992. (It was in
poor
shape.) He put paint on the bottom, Strengthened a few floor timbers and launched her. He sailed her one season. When I bought her last fall.
Quest
was sitting on the side of the road with a for sale sign on the bow. She had been stored in that large barn that you see behind her for 10 years.

Epiphany (S203), photo courtesy
Ted Lameyer

Epiphany (S203), photo courtesy
Ted Lameyer

Epiphany (S203) in the boat shed, photo courtesy
Ted Lameyer
Brad any information you have is greatly appreciated. It is great
to
contact you. I am looking for information regarding rigging of this
boat. I
have a sail plan from Erik Nilsson's 1935 drawings that shows a spreader and jumperstrut rig that goes to within 1 meter of the top of the boat.
The mast I have does not have this rig. Mine only has lower shouds that
goes
to the jumbers and upper shouds that goes as high as the forestay. There are running backs and of course a backstay as well as a place for 2 forestays. I am concerned that the top of my mast has no apparent lateral
support. Have you ever heard of this? Does any 22 in Chicago have a rig
like this? When I spoke to the previous owner, he remembers that he had trouble with the main brushing the backstay a lot. I think he did not
angle
the mast back like my sail plan shows. I am very interested in seeing
photos
of the rigging of these boats so I can make good decisions. I think I
should restore the rigging to the original. I just would like to
understand
why it was changed. It appears that this rigging was changed perhaps in
the
seventies.
"Quest" has been renamed "Epiphany" and still has glorious lines. There
are
over 25 cracked frames inside and the bow was poorly repaired after a
collision. The sternpost and rudder have also been changed and repaired.
I
have a great deal of work in front of me, but I am young and foolish,
and
her beauty calls me.
Please pass my name on to others who may be able to help me.
Your efforts are greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Ted
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Ted,
This is indeed exciting news! I feared Quest (Icicle) had long ago
rotted into a dust heap somewhere. She is very worth your efforts and I
will help all that I can. If she is indeed Sonja's sistership (S200)
then I am sure Rich will be able to lend some insight for you also.
We only knew her here (or remember her here) as Icicle and Quest (US
38). Peter is very good at figuring out which boats are which and has a
long history with the 22's so I would guess that he is right about her
being Charlott. The Kungsors yard where she was built means she was
made very well. She was exported to the USA in 1937, I would bet by
Knud Reimers (one of the best 22 designers of all time) as he was
brokering boats over here at that time. Our boat, Javelin, was long
thought to be one of his designs until Peter determined her origin a few
years back from a photo I sent him so I think you can trust his guess.
Regarding your broken ribs. Almost all of the Chicago boats suffered
this fate as they were sailed (raced) very hard in heavy winds and
wave. Our boat has 100 sister ribs (imagine when I have to remove all
of those) and 25 ribs forward that are cracked would seem almost normal
and a relief to me.... Javelin has numerous new timbers, a new rudder,
some new planks and deadwood. Next year we are finally going to replace
the stern deck and jack some more shear into her. There is always work
but it is well worth it. Rich's repairs on Sonja have been even more
extensive but he has a new boat to show for the effort (that looks like
a piece of fine furniture)!
Regarding your rig it sounds similar to our own. The big jumperstrut
(ours was drawn at almost 3') never really showed up here on the boats
but a smaller "v" jumper, or even single jumper, often did on the
original masts. These original masts were curved aft at the top to
resemble a gull wing tip (rather an elliptical curve aft). When curved
they needed the extra support but it was primarily aft and a little to
the sides. The curve, of course, let the mains clear the back stay.
Our current rig is a Udell (they were one design 22's designed in the
late '50's by Reimers for Lake Michigan) version. Two for stays (side by
side so they could switch foresails when racing quickly), two shrouds to
the hound, a diamond from the base of the mast to the spreaders at 1/3
total height and on to the hounds, two running backstays and a permanent
back. No jumpers anymore and the masts are much straighter than the
original. The Udell rig is less complicated, sails fit better, there is
less rigging aloft, and we thought faster. Your rig sounds very similar
except the spreaders go through the deck (our original rig did that).
Whether you need a jumper up on top really depends upon the section of
the mast. If it is thick enough, and it does not curve aft, I would
think you are safe. If it is very light and does curve you might want
to consider an addition. This could well have been modified during the
repairs. We led a little tang aft from the masthead for the backstay
when we decided to take some of the rake out of the mast. Otherwise
raking it a foot or more should clear the top of the sail (new sails
have a bigger roach up top than the sails in the 30's).
The top of the mast does lay off a bit in a good wind but this also
helps spill some unwanted air from the main. 22's can take a heck of a
lot of wind.... Our original drawings also showed a large jumperstrut
from an extra forward forestay, the block for it is under the bow plate,
but it was never used...
Some of the boats here have been out of the water more than 10 years and
have gone back in with minimal effort (in comparison to a total
rebuild). I would suggest you not over caulk her (or put any in if
there was none there), do not over tighten any keel bolts, and maybe not
do that until you have soaked her for a couple of weeks (we do this
every year on the trailer so she swells before we put her in). Do not "fill up the boat" but soak with blankets and sprinklers. Real damp. I
am sure you will have some things to deal with but she might fair better
than you think. Let me mention again... do not tighten up the keel
bolts until she has been soaked!!!
In Sweden, and maybe Peter has filled you in, they refasten the boats,
spline the seams, soak them in raw linseed oil (for weeks), and then
varnish them inside and out. This seems to do an amazing job if you
have or want to take the time. Someday I hope to do this to Javelin as
her 70 years really show. But first those decks, ribs, and some new
timber and deadwood.... I am not that young but still crazy and enough
in love with the boat to look forward to it! But like the Swedes we
sail her every year (some of them remove a deck, replace the deck, sail
the boats, then remove the deck again to do more work every year)...
I have attached a photo of Javelin under sail so you can get an idea of
the rig (although you can't see the important parts... it is all I have
scanned right now). She is 35.5' x 6' x 4.5' and about 3800 lbs.
Will send more once I have some stuff together...
Brad
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Ted, Brad!
It seems to me that the boats US 38 "Quest" and S 203 "Charlott" must be the same boat. I guess that until yesterday neither Brad or anyone else in CYC knew about the history of "Quest".
Now we all know that she was built at Kunsors yacht yard in 1935 as a lottery boat for the Stockholm Sailing Society, SSS. Designed by engineer Erik Nilsson, an won by a well known sail maker in Stockholm whos last name were "Ortengren". He sold the boat to the US approximately. in 1937, so there should be some racing results from 1935 and 1936. I`ll see if I can find them for you Ted!
I think Brad mentioned that quest was sold from Chicago in the early 70's. Maybe she was sold to New York, where she obviously spent a number of years?
The 1938 boat (S 228) that Ted mentioned is out of the question. First, this boat is 12,70 meters long (almost 1meter longer than Ted's boat). I also think she is still in the Chicago area called "Brita" with the sail number US 10. I think Brad can confirm this?
I guess Ted with some help from Brad will be able to find some old owners in Chicago to find out more about her history.
I must congratulate you Ted to have found such a nice yacht, in what seems to be in pretty good shape, even if I realize that she will need a lot of work. I hope you can get in touch with Richard in Detroit soon. I think he will be very excited to find out that there is a sistership to his "Sonja" S 200 in the US.
If you should have any further questions about the boats, just let me know!
Peter
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Hey gentlemen!
Ted, I received a copy of Brad's email and thought I would pass on a link
to some photos. The one on the 'ofoto' site in black and white was taken
in 1939 on Lake St. Clair and shows the strut that you talked about. Right
now Sonja is rigged with a V strut. The current mast is not original, which
explains some other differences that I've noticed.
Here's the current project, the forekeel replacement. It was rotted at the
forward two keelbolts and wouldn't quit leaking when we finally launched
last year. When I got it out, I was able to get my patterns, and then it
started to fall apart.
I'm at work and only have a few minutes but will forward more later from
home. Brad, I've been at this since we milled the log in December. Only had
access to the boat on Saturdays so It's taken awhile to get this far. I'm
almost finished with the forekeel rabbets, and then I
have six new floors forward to fine-fit, and then on to the horn. Got a
quart of red lead primer from Kirby's yesterday and I should have the
forekeel ready to install by Saturday,if I only had the bronze for the
bolts. Gotta get the order in to McMaster-Carr today or tomorrow.
Good to find another 22 owner!
Rich
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Ted,
That Reimers was a sneaky guy! Great designer but a tad sneaky!
When the boats were brought over from Sweden and registered here they
were all given US numbers. Many of the new owners kept the Swedish
numbers (much to Peters surprise to see S on the sails) either because
it was not a big deal to change back then, they wanted to maintain the
Swedish heritage, or they were too cheap to buy new sails and have them
remarked (my guess is the last and the first). I don't even know our US
number.... This is also how we ended up with 3 S90's on Lake
Michigan... that was the sail that came with the boat!
On the other hand in Sweden, as I understand it, an individual "owned"
the number and subsequent boats of the class would often use that same
number. Hence there are also repeating numbers there.
About the cracked ribs I would reinforce that seam. They typically do
crack in a row like that and, on one real heavy day years ago, we popped
a couple of more in a row and the planks started moving in and out
letting in copious amounts of water. While sister ribs are the quick
and traditional fix if you do not plan on trying to get her in this
season I would shy away from it (I look at 100 sister ribs put in in the
early 70's and shudder sometimes). The main reason is that, while it
does the job, they make extra holes in the planks, don't solve any rot
problems at the broken ends of the original ribs, and eventually cause a
water trap between the ribs (and then rot). Of course you have to
realize that we sail in fresh water and rot is much more of an issue (we "salt" our boat every year to try and control it some). I would suggest
one of the following two options to keep things together for now (or
longer):
A good fix that I have not used but seems sensible is to cut away the
bad part of the rib plus a plank or more on each side by dishing out
from above (this is often offered up in wooden boat and one of their
books... I can find more info if you need). Then a new section is bend
laminated into the dished out area and epoxied to the old (now curve
scarfed) ribs and refastened with the old holes. I think it would last
for a very long time and might actually try this on a few of our ribs
this spring.
Another "quick" option we have used to keep her in the water to to bend
a 1/8" stainless steel strip the width of the rib over the top of it
that extends a plank or more above and below the crack. We then fasten
this in with stainless bolts through he old rivet holes. This worked
pretty well for us also but sometimes leaves a bit more flex than one
might want.
And a third option, one that was done years ago in our boat that I took
out but had apparently done its job for a long time, was a similar
length cut sister that was laid next to the existing rib, bolted in four
places through the old rib, and pulled up tight. The bolts then run
parallel to the planking and through the rib that you will probably
replace someday anyway.
The only bad thing that I have found about epoxy laminated oak sister
ribs is that epoxy and oak, after ten or fifteen years, tend to separate
from each other (wooden boat reported this the year after we laminated a
section of deadwood in place). This is only an issue when the laminated
section is submerged often (like the deadwood or the tails of the ribs
in the bottom of the bilge in our case). Resorcinol glue would probably
not do this.... I have not had the guts to try Gorilla glue yet!
And those keel bolts.... many of the 22's I have seen that have been
out of the water for 10 years have a gap between the bottom of the
deadwood on the keel and the lead (up to 1/2") and/or the bolts are
loose (i.e. you could take up an 1/8 to a 1/4 of an inch on them!).
This is because the oak dries out and shrinks away (we have had gaps in
cracks in our deadwood up to 1/4" that would close every year when we
soaked the boat). If one were to tighten these loose bolts, or pull up
the lead, or caulk the heck out of the deadwood there is a fair to good
chance that something will let go when the boat swells. A timber will
crack, the deadwood would crack, the old iron keelbolt would break, or
something will squish big time. That is why I said not to tighten loose
looking bolts until the boat had soaked up. If we assume the whole boat
is a tad "loose" tightening one thing without tightening everything is
going to find some weak point....
If the bolts seem tight, the keel is tight, and we assume no one
tightened them while the boat was sitting around for years (you can
often tell by looking to see if the nuts have been tightened if the paint that is probably over them and on the thread above them has been
cracked or new paint exposed) then I would just leave them alone until
the boat is soaked. In the spring when we replace a timber or something
the boat is dry so we would normally only make the bolt comfortably snug
(it is a guesstimate). When the Swedes do "big work" they often
humidify the boats by wetting down a big pile of sawdust under he hull.
Bacchant (a 75 square meter out of Milwaukee) is keep in a climate
controlled environment off season and during work. A building at 50°
and some 80% humidity). If your the deadwood seams are less than 1/4",
the lead almost touches the wood, and the nuts touch the timbers
consider yourself lucky and the owner of a very tight hull in great
condition!
Your mast does sound like a Udell type rig. Something used here but not
in Sweden I don't think as Peter didn't seem familiar with it (of course
they are into aluminum masts for their racing boats). If the mast was
built (or repaired) for the boat it is probably the right size, if it is
a Udell mast that was found somewhere (the fleet had spares) then you
might find that it is a hair short depending upon the boom length and
your sail area a hair small. Udell masts always step on deck and I
failed to ask you about that. Ours is stepped on deck now (we didn't
change it by the way, my dad had sold the boat once in the early '60's,the new owner changed it, and then he bought it back after the new owner
sank her... Javelin has actually seen the bottom of the harbor twice
over the years). The old rig was very pretty but the new ones are not
bad, eliminate a second spreader and the jumpers, and easier to cut
sails for (the old curved sails never fit right. They might have been
able to make them in Sweden but not here).
The "rake" of the mast, how much it leans aft, is a tad subjective.
Here we have tried everything from almost straight up and down to almost
3' of rake looking for more boat speed. On Javelin we finally settled
in at about 1' of rake. She seemed faster in light air (we were never
good in heavy anyway) and the helm balanced better. That is what you
are going for with rake, a balanced helm. On the other hand when we did
that she suddenly seemed to get a bit wild downwind with a spinnaker
when it was windy (over 15 knots for us) and oscillated like mad
requiring a lot of spinnaker trim input. It seemed to be a function of
the rake and new spinnaker design. Eventually our fleet went to longer
(and illegal) spinnaker poles (at the suggestion of the sail maker)
which made a big difference, stabilized the boat in wind, made flying
the chutes in heavy air much more pleasing, let us keep them out of the
water in light air, and really increased performance.
To keep the backstay off of the mainsail, as I mentioned, we just added
a bit of a stainless fitting that extends back four or five inches at
the top of the mast (much like Etchells or Soling mast tops). our
biggest problem was clearing the headplates on the sails but this might
help you also. More rake will also take care of it as would moving the
backstay position aft. The problem with just moving the rake back is
that it might adversely affect the helm and still not clear the sail.
I guess I would rig it up, see how much of a problem it is, play with
the rake a bit, then decide what to do the next season. Could be your
sail simply has a bit too much roach (or maybe is just too big).
Looks like I have to get to work myself....
Will talk again,
Brad
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Brad,
How nice it is to hear the history of my boat. She is far from rotting
somewhere. I had a great old-timer survey her here and he was impressed.
There is very little if any rot in the stem and horn timbers. This boat
has suffered under poor craftsmanship and stupidity, but she looks like we
could recover her well. The trailer is markered "Quest US 38". Why did the
sail number change when it was brought over to the States? Is this the only
US38 or are there others?
Like you, I was told my boat was a Knud Reimers design when I bought
her,but after seeing the Erik Nilsson drawings there is no doubt that it is
his design. As for the cracked ribs. The previous owner did sail her with them
cracked. There are a few places where there are 5 or 6 in a row all cracked at
the same plank. Perhaps it would be best to do a fairly quick sistering of
these places to hold the shape, Then after getting a year or so under my
belt, I can understand what will be needed.
My rig sounds like yours. It has 2 forestays side by side. There is a
diamond from the base of the mast with small spreaders about 1/3 the way
up, and coming in at the forestay height. I have 2 running backs that
comeback behind the jib winch and go through the deck to a wheel winch
mounted to the side of the hull in the cockpit. My mast is staight and appears
quite sturdy. The mainsail feeds inside a slot in the mast.
I was told by the previous owner that he had trouble with the main
catching on the backstay. I suspect he did not have the propper angle to the mast
when he stepped it. How do you know when the angle is correct?
Your warning on the keel bolts sounds ominous. They are tight now. Should
I loosen them? It sounds as though there will be some expansion of the
floor timbers or keel timber when the boat swells
Well thanks for now. I must go to a meeting, but I am looking forward to
our connection and perhaps someday challeging Javelin once again.
Sincerely,
Ted
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Hello Ted!
After seeing the photos of your boat on the 22Klubben web site, I agree
that she looks very much like Sonja. I hope you received the other email
that I sent with a link to photos. Here's a few from last year before
we discovered the forekeel problem.
I'm very curious as to the arrangement of the deck hardware for the
running backstays. I plan to change Sonja's from the original wire-slide
to something a little more friendly. How are your's laid out?
Best regards,
Rich
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Hello Ted,
I rezipped as an .exe so you should be able to see these. There's an
overhead view of Sonja in 1972 where you can see the locations of the
deck openings for the shrouds, the original wire-slide running back
arrangement, and the locations of the jib tracks. I found another old
photo from '78 that shows the shrouds through the deck. This was during
a deck replacement, so some of the hardware is missing.
I can't figure why they changed the shroud setup, unless the mast isn't
original and the spreaders are wider than designed. So much gets lost
over the years, but I'm confident that the current dimensions of Sonja's
rig are the same as the one that was broken in the 1940's. It's keel
stepped, too. The other thing is the frames that the shrouds run to
below decks. Sonja has only two steel frames in the boat and those carry
the load of the shrouds. She's never seen salt water except in '34-'36,
so the frames aren't in bad shape. If S203 has been a salt water boat,
are those two frames still solid?
I never had a standard jib other than an old, cotton storm jib, and I
never flew that. I have a 150% genoa , and a 170 genoa for real light
air, but I'd love to find a 135. Either way, they all cleared the
shrouds. See the short jib tracks up near the forward part of the cabin?
They're set out far enough to clear ok. When you're as close-hauled as
you'd ever want to be, the genoa foot runs right along the edge of the
deck. The head clears the spreaders fine.
The overhead shot was when Sonja was still in fiberglass. The Oregon
pine deck had been sanded to the point where the galvanized edge nails
were showing through.
You going to do a total restoration? If so, don't do what I did. Start
at the bottom. Make sure the hull still has shape and hasn't hogged. If
your keelbolts are original, they're probably just about gone. Mine were
down to 1/4 at the keelson. If you need photos showing locations of the
nut cavities, I can send those too.
I'm really up in the air over the running backs. I still have the old
fittings, but the sheerclamp isn't the greatest and needs a Dutchman,
and I really didn't want to put that many holes in the deck again. I was
thinking of an eyebolt with two-part blocks, as I've seen on the SSKF
website.
Regards,
Rich
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Richard,
I have a question for you. I am including a photo of my deck view of shroud
locations. In it you can see the mast step, the chalked ovals where the
original shrouds went through the deck and a hole out through the covering
board where the current shroud goes through the deck, as well as a eye bolt
that goes through the shear strake for the aft shroud.
I am confused. It appears that by moving the shrouds out, the jib will not
be able to come all the way in. My questions for you are: Where are the
shroud locations on Sonja's deck? Does your boat have a large genoa? and a
storm jib and where are the jib leads for each jib?
I was unable to open the Launch 2001 due to missing zip software. Perhaps I
can update soon.
Thanks,
Ted
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Hello Ted,
When I started on Sonja, I had no idea what I was getting into either.
When I saw the boat for sale in '76, I called one of the previous owners
to get his opinion. He said, "Don't do it!" I did it anyway. I too try
to be a perfectionist, but it doesn't always work out that way. LOL!
I've ended up redoing almost everything. If I was going to do it again,
I guess I'd start at the bottom and make a list. Take lots of pictures
of the 'before' state so you can see where everything went.
The keel is most important. Even though you can see the blind nails in
the deck, don't be tempted to start there. If you do, and the boat is
hogged, (yes, slumped at the stern) you'll never get the hog out since
the deck provides some support. I suppose there's a couple ways to check
for hog, but I saw it easiest in the shear strakes. In Sonja, there's a
butt block on each side adjacent to the aft part of the cockpit. The aft
shear strake was lifted up slightly at this point and there was a
distinct gap between that strake and the next one down. The gap goes
away 4 or 5 inches aft of the butt block. Lay a ruler edgewise on a
table with only a couple inches on the table, the rest hanging over the
side. Tilt the outboard end down and you'll see a gap between the ruler
and the table. The shear will act the same way. If you have it on one
side and not the other, then chances are the hull has a bit of twist.
Sonja does. I tried my damndest to get it out, but it's still there. It
took a set after being on the hard in mud for 5 years.
How do you your keel bolts look? They original?
I know that Brad told you the guys in Sweden work in shifts, making sure
they sail the boat every year, but sometimes that isn't possible. You'll
know what needs to be done when you take a hard look. You know what
'project creep' is? I've had that and then some. Every time you turn in
a new screw and it just keeps turning. Arghhh!
btw, the original genoa track is a U shaped bronze channel that sits on
deck and screws down through the covering board and into the shear
strake. Not sure what the Swedish guys are using now, but I've seen them
get away from a lot of the original hardware. It doesn't seem important
to them to keep it.
Call whenever you get a chance.
Cheers,
Rich
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Rich,
Your photos of Sonja are extremely helpful. Seeing the shrouds in their
original location makes sense. I'm not sure why it was moved outboard to
the covering boards on my boat.
I obviously don't know exactly what I am getting into, but I love it
anyway. I am not planning a total rebuild, but I am a woodworker and a
perfectionist, and I'm not sure where I will be drawing the line on each
project. My deck is currently in the same condition yours was in. I can see
the edges of the blind nails all over the deck. I also have the two metal
frames that originally supported my shrouds. Now there is a jury rig below
deck for one shroud and an eyebolt on the deck for the other. It looks
really bad, and it would not let me pull the jib in as far as I should.
What does the term "hogged" mean in your last email? I assume it means
slumped. How do I know if this has happened?
I would like to live a life where I can go out to the shed and work on her
after work. I am hoping that by building the shed next to my house, I will
be able to do the work myself. That is why I find your commitment so
attractive. You are doing the work.
I'll be calling soon just to introduce myself, and perhaps get a good feel
for what to look for in each of my projects. Until I have done it once, I
am a little hesitant to open her up. But I must start soon.
Thanks for your help.
Best Wishes,
Ted
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Based on the company Ted keeps I think Epiphany is is good hands. Below is a photo of Ted racing with Olin Stevens when Olin was 97 years old.

Epiphany (S203), photo courtesy
Ted Lameyer
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